Etched dichroic and etched luminescent glass add pattern, shimmer, and depth to fused work, but the coated side changes how you cut, stack, and fire. This page gathers the handling and firing guidance we publish across our etched glass products in one place. Treat every schedule and temperature here as a guideline, not a guarantee. Kilns vary and handmade sheets vary, so test a small piece first whenever the result matters.
Cutting etched glass
- Cut on the non-etched back side. Score on the smooth, uncoated back with a standard wheel, standard oil, and standard pressure, then run and separate as usual. Cutting from the back keeps the pattern intact.
- On dichroic glass, the coating is on the shinier, more reflective side. Hold the sheet up to a light: the side that shows the pattern crisply with no shadow offset is the coated side.
- For etched luminescent glass, if you need to cut on the etched front side, pre-fire the sheet etched side down to about 1350°F first to stabilize the surface, then cut.
Firing etched dichroic glass
- Follow the published firing schedule for the base glass you selected. The etched coating is thin and does not change the heatwork, so pull your ramp, soak, and anneal values from the base manufacturer's technical sheet.
- Firing orientation changes the finish on etched dichroic and iridescent glass. Etched side down tends to give a softer matte look, while etched side up keeps more gloss and color depth. Fire a test piece to confirm the look you want in your kiln.
- Cap or no cap: many artists cap etched dichroic with clear glass to help protect the surface and create a richer, glassier look. Uncapped and tack-fused approaches also work depending on the project, firing style, and desired finish. Test a small piece first when the final appearance matters.
Firing etched luminescent glass
- Do not cap luminescent glass with clear.
- For the first fuse, fire etched side down on a fiber product such as ThinFire or Fiberfrax shelf paper. Fired face up, the luminescent coating can burn off.
- After the first fuse, the piece can be re-fired etched side up at a lower temperature, under 1400°F. In our own work we do not exceed 1250°F.
- The rainbow shimmer is visible in ordinary light; it is not glow in the dark glass. The effect varies sheet to sheet, so plan on each piece being unique.
Compatibility, annealing, and testing
- Never mix COE90 and COE96 in one fused piece. Incompatible expansion rates can cause cracking during cooling or stress that appears later.
- Anneal according to the base glass manufacturer's guidance for the total thickness and size of your project. The coating does not replace or reduce normal annealing requirements.
- Devitrification risk depends on the base glass, firing temperature, and kiln conditions. A clear cap or good glass fusing practice helps protect surfaces that are prone to devit.
- Avoid direct flame unless you have tested the specific glass and coating combination.
- Every kiln responds differently. Heat gradually, document your firing schedule, and keep a log so your results are repeatable.
Learn more
For fundamentals such as glass compatibility, cutting, and fusing basics, visit our Glass Art Education page. Etched luminescent product pages also include the Luminescent Love tip sheet PDF with the full firing guide for that glass, and every etched product page carries working notes written for that specific pattern.
